Central America

Monday 3rd May 2010

Granada to Choluteca (Honduras)

181 Miles

Total PanAm Miles 10,666

This morning did not start well; I woke up too early and then needed the loo every 20 minutes. It was very humid and about 28 degrees at 8am. After six trips to the toilet I took an Imodium and hoped for the best. Martin and I left the hotel at 8.45am. I was supposed to wait for sanders to turn up with the tyres because he is having trouble getting through customs with them without paying import tax. It specifies in the contract that the spare tyres will be carried in the support vehicle, so it’s his problem. I carried my spare rear tyre from Buenas Aires to Lima, I’ve done my bit.

The first part of the journey went well until I was stopped by the law; luckily all they wanted to see was my passport and licence. I think I got away lightly especially when Nigel got stung for $150 the other day. Riding around the capital city of Managua was quite straight forward; however, we appeared to take a different route to most other people. The route we took started ok but the road quality deteriorated after a few miles. There were allot of potholes which were difficult to negotiate at more than 30mph. Parts of the road were missing all together. The road improved after about twenty miles. We made good progress to the border and stopped for lunch just before it.

The border was unusually quiet and with the help of a fixer we were on our way in about an hour. The hotel was only about 50km’s away and the ride was easy. The temperature was 38 degrees so the air conditioned room and swimming pool at the hotel were a bonus.





Sunday 2nd May 2010

San Isidro to Granada (Nicaragua)

308 Miles

Total PanAm Miles 10,485

The weather first thing looked grey; I wasn’t sure if it would rain or not so I decided to put my waterproof linings in jest in case. We set off at 7.30am and by then the weather looked brighter. The road went up into the mountains and the temperature dropped from the mid twenties to 12 degrees. After descending the mountain and getting a little lost in San Jose I was absolutely boiling. We stopped for fuel and a snack and to remove my waterproofs.

The roads in Costa Rica are generally good quality but the speed limits are incredibly slow and the police are everywhere with speed guns. This makes for a very slow and boring ride.

We eventually reached the border at 3pm. By this time it was 36 degrees and very humid. The getting out of Costa Rica took a while due to due to the queues and the walk to the separate offices. Another fumigation process and then we started the process of getting into Nicaragua. Again we were helped by a fixer. It takes a long time because of the bike. There are charges for insurance, a tourist tax and other charges just because they can. With the paperwork complete and the fixer paid we were free to go. By this time it was getting dark and we still had 60 miles to go. I only had about 25 miles left in the tank so a petrol station was needed. We were riding through countryside with no sign of fuel. With 4 miles left in the tank we came to a town with fuel. Then disaster struck, I was adjusting my headlight angle and the adjuster fell out and now my light is pointing at the stars. The last 40 miles were very difficult with little visibility, some wet roads and the threat of a downpour. Luckily we arrived at the hotel minutes before the rain started. It’s been a very long and tiring day!





Saturday 1st May 2010

Santiago to San Isidro de el General

275 Miles

Total PanAm Miles 10,177

Another border crossing today, Panama into Costa Rica. We left the hotel at 7am, a little later than planned. The ride to the border crossing was straight forward. The first part of the process was to get the bike fumigated (chemical spray) and to get the certificate to prove it. Leaving Panama was simple enough. The entry process into Costa Rica was aided by a fixer who led us through the red tape. Forms to be filled in, photocopies taken and a long wait in a queue for it all to be processed. The fixer was paid $5 dollars for his services and we were on our way.

A few miles down the road we stopped for lunch at what looked similar to a KFC. After lunch we proceeded on the 140 mile journey to the Hotel Diamante Real at San Isidro. The ride started off dry but after a few miles the rain started. Without any waterproofs on I hoped it would only be showers. It was not to be, after a few minutes it pissed it down! I had to stop at a small bus shelter to put on my waterproof over suit, a £20 special from Lidl. Lesson learnt – it leaks. We drove through patches of very heavy rain with my visor and specs steaming up making it difficult to see. Peering over the top of my glasses made it a little better.

Nigel, Martin and I found the hotel quite easily, a nice place with good rooms. After sorting out our wet gear we went out for refreshments. I went for a beer in a local bar with Barry, Patrick and Ilene. The search for food was a little more difficult. There didn’t seem to be many places open. We found a local place and were joined by Steve and Nadine. The restaurant didn’t have a menu as the chef/owner changes it so often he doesn’t bother printing one. Once we had been told what was on offer we made our order, I decided on the Conger Eel! Very nice it was too.